Around Key West on Two Wheels
The good people at WLRN were good enough to give me a bike back in April, when we officially opened the Southernmost public radio studio at The Studios of Key West. And that bike got a lot of attention — even a piece in Bicycling magazine's web site! I decided to put the bike to work and rode around the island with Key West's new go-getting pedestrian/cycling/transit coordinator, Chris Hamilton. Here's the story.
Dade County Birthplace Now A Keys 'Ghost Town'
If you had to guess where Dade County, forerunner of Miami-Dade County, was born, chances are you would think it was somewhere on the mainland. You would be wrong. Dade County was created by the Florida Legislature in 1836 at the behest of an empire-building shipwreck salvaging magnate named Jacob Housman. And that empire was based at Indian Key, an island off what is now Islamorada in the Upper Keys. The empire didn't last all that long – Housman lost everything in an attack by Native Americans that was part of the Seminole Wars. But for a few years there, Indian Key became a shipwreck salvaging and subtropical horticulture outpost that almost rivaled Key West. Now the new Florida Keys History and Discovery Museum in Islamorada has created a new exhibit about the little-known history of the place, complete with a cool 3-D model. I kayaked over to Indian Key with writer and historian Brad Bertelli to check out the ghost town that sits right off our shore.
Genetically Modified Mosquitoes
The Florida Keys have been on the forefront of effective mosquito control — and disease suppression — by using old-school tools like turkey basters and door-to-door inspections. Now the Keys could be on the front lines for a cutting-edge approach to battling Aedes aegypti, the mosquito that carries dengue fever, chikungunya — and zika. A first-in-the-U.S. trial of the technology has won preliminary approval from the FDA, but some in the neighborhood where it would be tested are opposed. Here's my story for NPR about the issue.
Lots of books are set in Key West — and the majority of them seem to be mysteries. Some of the most successful are the Key West Food Critic Mysteries by Lucy Burdette. That's the pen name for Roberta Isleib, a local writer. The seventh installment in the series, Killer Takeout, is about to be published. Isleib sat down with me to talk about her book and about writing about the island, including real places and people (when I was doing the web post for the story I had the novel experience of double-checking the spelling of a fictional character's name ... by checking my Facebook friends.
The Rose Tattoo
Tennessee Williams was born in March so it has become the month that Key West celebrates the playwright. Last year I did a story about the renewal of interest in his work on the island. This year's story is about The Rose Tattoo. The play was set in an unnamed town on the Gulf of Mexico. For the movie version, Key West played that role. Italian actress Anna Magnani starred in the movie and won an Academy Award for the role. But the play and movie have been largely forgotten and Magnani doesn't have the same kind of U.S. profile as, say, Sophia Loren. This story, run around the 60th anniversary of Magnani's Oscar win, is about the restoration of the Rose Tattoo house by an Italian couple. I've seen the movie a few times and knew the story — but it had never occurred to me, until they pointed it out, that Rose is the name of Tennessee Williams' beloved, disabled sister. And that he put her name in a work with a happy ending which, we all know, is pretty unusual for him.
In many portrayals on tours, song and stage, Key West's past is portrayed as quaint, or amusing. But the recent history — like the 1970s and '80s — were serious for a lot of locals. Playwright Michael Marrero has brought those stories to the stage in Locura, a new play.
New in Old Town
How do you incorporate new construction into a historic district like Old Town Key West? A recent spate of new construction has brought that question to the forefront — and highlighted the debate about whether new buildings should blend in with the old, or should be obviously different so they are not masquerading as faux historic.
In the early 1990s, Florida Bay collapsed. A seagrass die-off led to algae blooms and threatened the regional economy. That threat helped sell the historic Everglades restoration plan. Now, after a drought last summer, the seagrass has started dying again. Fishing guides and scientists can only watch ... and worry. This story ran on NPR's Weekend Edition, as part of a four-part series about the Everglades.
In the 1950s, an eccentric inventor named Adolph Grimal came to the Keys to work on underwater 3-D photography. But he fell in love with tropical horticulture and built himself an oasis on Big Pine Key. After his death it was neglected and overgrown. But then another dreamer came along — one who's made it his mission to revive Grimal Grove.
Over the years, I've seen the big Saturday night Fantasy Fest parade from a lot of angles. As a reporter and, for many years, as a participant. But in recent years it's gotten a lot less fun and a lot less interesting. This essay covers why I gave the parade a pass this year and went out to New Town for a friend's Halloween party (and to give out candy to kids — which was waaaaay more fun than the parade has been in recent years.
If you live or own property in the Florida Keys and you are airlifted to the mainland you can wind up with a bill for tens of thousands of dollars. Or you could pay nothing. It all depends on which helicopter takes you. And now, the county is trying to make sure residents know about the cheaper, county-owned option — and can make their wishes known even if they can't communicate.
For anyone living in South Florida, the years of 2004 and 2005 have become a kind of merciful blur. At least I hope so. Those were the years that we were repeatedly on alert for hurricanes. We thought 2004 was bad — until the next year started right up with Arlene in June and kept going until Tropical Storm Zeta. In January. Of 2006. They ran out of letter names and the storm season refused to shut down on Nov. 30, like it's supposed to.
But the worst was Wilma. It crashed into the Yucatan then hung out there for days before winding up and flinging itself across Florida. It was a Category 3 when it went by the Keys but it wasn't the wind that got us. It was the water. Here's my story about that storm, part of a series WLRN put together about Wilma's 10-year anniversary.
How We See You
A new photo show looks both ways across the Florida Straits. Photographer Jeffrey Cardenas, from Key West, and Cuban photographer Yanela Piñeiro, shot the same people at the same time. The differences, and similarities, in their images are fascinating. The show opened last year at the Museum of Fine Arts in Havana. It had its U.S. debut at The Studios of Key West. And if you miss the show, you can still buy a copy of the book.
The Turtle Hospital in Marathon started out in the saltwater pool behind a modest motel. Now it's a cutting-edge facility that pioneers work to save sea turtles — especially green sea turtles suffering from the effects of fibropapilloma tumors.
New Deal Photographs
Arthur Rothstein was a photographer for the Farm Security Administration during the Great Depression, working alongside colleagues like Walker Evans and Dorothea Lange to document Americans working through hardship. In 1938, he was assigned to visit Key West. His images capture the island during one of its bleakest periods, before the economic engines of the Navy and tourism blasted us back into prosperity.
Labor Day Hurricane
Eighty years ago, hurricanes didn't have human names. So the storm that killed hundreds of people and spelled the end of the Over-Sea Railway is known by the date it slammed into Islamorada: the Labor Day Hurricane.
Everglades National Park
Everglades National Park is a complicated, dynamic place. The park's managers have to fulfill its sometimes conflicting mission: to preserve the park's resources while also providing as much access as possible to its owners — the public. And they're doing all this in South Florida, with a metropolitan area of 6 million people and the demands for development and water management above and around the park.
I talked to a longtime Florida Bay fishing guide about the park's new management plan, which includes more than 100,000 acres of pole-and-troll zones — areas where you would have to turn off the boat's motor and push it, to protect the shallow seagrass beds from propeller scarring. He's OK with most of the provisions of the plan, though adamant that physical user damage is in no way the major challenge facing the Everglades, including Florida Bay.
Civil War Memorials
Key West makes a big deal out of its status as the nation's Southernmost Point. But during the Civil War, we were the southernmost Union outpost, even though Florida was the third state to secede
Now we have memorials to the Civil War - both sides of the Civil War, in close proximity to each other. And the city isn't talking about taking down its Confederate memorial, a pavilion built in 1924 by the United Daughters of the Confederacy. They're restoring it, even as they also get ready to put up a new statue, honoring black soldiers who were recruited here during the war. My story about the memorials ran on NPR's Morning Edition Aug. 6. A slightly different, slightly longer version ran a couple weeks later on WLRN.
My first non-narrated piece! That means it's just the subject talking. And he's a great subject: Jim Hale races pigeons and rescues those that wind up in the Keys after getting blown off course. Including a surprising number from Cuba.
The prospect of renewed ferry service between the U.S. and Cuba has a lot of people on the island hoping for a return to the good old days. But there are some logistical hurdles to overcome.
Speaking of Cuba ... when the Obama administration announced the renewal of diplomatic relations, lots of people looked to Miami. But Key West is closer, and has long had a close relationship with Cuba. That relationship goes back a lot further than many people realize.
Key West's literary reputation is all about Hemingway, with the house and the cats and the lookalike contest. Now islanders are starting to focus on Tennessee Williams, the playwright who lived here much longer than Hemingway, and was a real part of the community even as he was hanging around with movie stars and celebrities.
Meg Cabot, author of the Princess Diaries series, is a popular and prolific writer. But the writer, who lives in Key West, recently took an uncharacteristic break from writing. Now she's back with two new books, both set in the world of the Princess Diaries, which she last wrote about in 2009. In this interview, she tells me about the books and about why she lives in Key West.